Birthplace of Japanese Cast Iron Art Form, Nambu Tekki -More than teapots and windchimes-
Highways of Japan The roads are very smooth and clean which makes it driver friendly and the road signs are alternately written in English. The rest stops are everywhere within every 20-30 kilometers (approx. 18 miles) available without exiting the highway and are filled with restaurants, souvenir shops, traffic reports and information, free green tea service, etc… and a high tech toilet with a bidet? Talk about service, but of course comes with a price. One way trip from Tokyo costs 10,000yen (approximately $100!!) for a 6 hour drive!! At least our roads are free regardless of the extraneous service!
Wanko lunch
Wanko soba noodles are made with soba-ko (buckwheat flour/four). Wanko soba is served in bite sized portions (owan means bowl) in individual goals. You can either have the portions served by an attendant one by one (literally thrown in the bowl) or served all at once (our choice). The concept of serving bite sized portions came from boiling smaller portions a little at a time and enjoying the noodles at their peak freshness. We started with the standard 24 bowl along with some side dishes usually pickles and grated yams.
We ended up trying to eat an extra 12 bowls. However, the bite size portions are pretty deceiving and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you are a big eater.
All in all for about $12 you can have a pretty good experience.
Moutsu-ji (MouTsu temple)
The entrance to Motsu-ji built by the Fujiwara-clan. During the height of the Fujiwara clan’s power during the 12th century, the garden was to have close to 40 halls and pagodas and was to represent the buddhist paradisse or Jodo (Pure Land).
Most of the buildings in Motsu-ji have been destroyed through the years. The remaining halls have been meticulously restored.
During the peak of the Furjiwara-clan’s power the Motsu-ji gardens were the center of cultural activity.
Many famous temple bells were cast in the Nambu region. This one, as we found out, was not. Many of the famous iron art pieces, including many temple bells, were melted down to make tanks and bullets for the Imperial army during WWII. This particular bell was shipped from Hiroshima after the war.
You can ring the bell in the park. Before you ring it, write your wishes on the wooden board and give it to the monk. After praying for your wishes, ring the bell. The sound of the bell is very large and deep, in which you hear it echo in your mind for a long time. Surely soothes your mind with zen. Although it is 500 yen to ring the bell.. of course. Everything costs money doesn’t it?
Chuson-ji (Chuson Temple)
The main temple is located on the top peak of the mountain, approximately 1 km… of course it is all uphill. And before all this hiking, we had Wanko-soba (all you can eat noodle) which made it more difficult to climb… Moderation is always a good thing. We finally made the peak to view the extravagant Kinshokudou, a golden temple perfectly covered in gold foil! Unfortunately no cameras were aloud so you have to go there and enjoy it yourself!
Kuroishi Tei
A temple known for their grand omatsuri “festival”. The “Naked festival” is held every year on the first sunday of February around 10 at night, until the next morning! The festival known for traditional spiritual goodness, fertility of new rice crop, and has been going on for over 1000 years. It is known that the people strip naked, even completely out of their “fundoshi” men’s traditional underwear. They are so lively and spirited! Would be a great experience to see!
Iwa Dera
Takkoku no iwaya Bishamondou
Shogun Sakano Ue no Tamuramaro built the shrine in 801AD. On the left side, on top of the mountain face, there is a large buddha (20 meters tall) sculpted. Bishamonten is one of the four heavenly kings in Buddhism, and is god of war. The great shogun Sakano Ue no Tamuramaro had won many victories and whenever he went off to war, he prayed to Bishamonten and continued to win his battles. Inside the hall was built with rough rock surface to be created as a single entity. Inside the hall is completely carved out of rock which looks like it is made of naturally made with stalagmite and sure releases a mystical atmosphere.
Yabitsu Onsen
Hotel Yabitsu Onsen (Hot springs) Hotel Zuisenkaku For 7,350yen, you can enjoy the hot springs, breakfast and dinner included! It seems that most Japanese hotels for sightseeing are expensive and the differences of cultures and customs may make it difficult for most of us to travel but the best of all is that I was able to enjoy the good old unchanged Japan for just a fair cost! The staff members are very courteous with friendly service and during dinner, we were able to meet very friendly visitors which made our stay much more enjoyable. We were only able to stay for the night but I would like to return again for some relaxing escape again. The outdoor bath was beautiful and secluded, maybe because of being Sunday, which made it better without the crowd. I was able to enjoy a nice fresh meal and a relaxing bath. Of course the bath is publicly shared which means you are naked with other strangers. (Not Co-ed!) If you feel uncomfortable then tough luck! Afterwards, we got some locally brewed sake and enjoyed the rest of the night.
Mizusawa-station front?Nambu tekki kaikan (Nambu Ironware Hall)
A huge iron kettle is displayed in front of the Bullet train station front. Truly shows that it is the hometown of iron ware. The Nambu tekki kaikan (Nambu Ironware Hall) is located in the distance. History of traditional method for creating iron wares can be observed in the Hall’s display of realistic dolls handcrafting.
Morioka Leimen (Morioka Cold noodles)
Very famous noodles from Iwate Prefecture. The characteristics of this noodles are well known for it’s rubber-like elasticity, with a luster like pasta. The staff at the store explained that the elasticity of the noodle can be two times more rubbery and it won’t be a problem. I challenged the extra large order and my jaws were sore after chewing the rubbery noodles. The soup was very light, and it goes well with a sake indeed. Although I wouldn’t recommended the extra large order…
Nambu Tekki(Nambu Ironware) Factory Tour
After greeting the President of the company taking time for us during his busy hours, we wore our safety helmets and went on the factory tour. We were stunned by the intensity of the iron ware building regardless of visiting the Nanbu Ironware Hall beforehand. The actual craftwork was astonishing! After heating the iron melting hot in the furnace, the steel is heated up to 1500 degrees celsius and poured into the mold to make shape. The hot lava like orange color was something to just stand and stare in awe.
Formation, polishing, pounding (the pounding is very important for strength, durability of the product). The noise is ear pounding, extremely loud, you cannot help but cover your ears! Since most of the crafting was prohibited from photography or video taping, it is unfortunate that we cannot show any of this process. I have imagined that most of this process was automated by machinery, but surprisingly most of the process is done handmade, and these true craftsmen deserve to be recognized for their quality and devotion.
Meeting the Tetsubin Artist
We have visited the workshop. The artists were exactly how I imagined them to be, “craftsmen” of few words. They were into their work so intensely, we were ignored without explanation for a while when we first arrived.
As we observed them for a while, we asked a few questions and they finally explained in detail about their work. They spoke in so much at craftsmen level, at times we were lost on what they were saying. Although we were very much able to see the traditional craftsmanship being passed down to newer generations within their own ancestral family of “shokunin” craftsmen. But there is also a problem on the other hand. “Ningen Kokuhou” referred to as “Living National Treasures” in Japan, these true craftsmen still creating traditional works from the past methods are slowly deteriorating and becoming extinct. This in time leads to the end of tradtional handcrafting from true craftsmen, which makes the actual products extinct as well, therefore will never be able to see the same traditional tetsubin appear over time. Artist Oikawa explained and assured us that his son will take after his traditional method in time and we have committed to a solid relationship. We are very grateful to be able to make these wonderful tetsubin available today.
Tetsubin, although being made the same in shape, does not necessarily mean that they are the same. The craftsmen’s devotion of each handmade product makes each of them unique with character and differences. Now that we have learned about the quality products, I know for one thing, we will make sure to take the bullet train instead of driving… Bon Voyage!
